This should be a pretty easy
job. The instructions basically tell you to remove the old connector and install
this one (per some details) in it's place. Like I said, I have installed loads of
sway bars and it is no big deal. The only part that is going to be tedious is the
location and tapping of a threaded hole to affix the storage pins into the frame.
But this too is a pretty simple operation provided you measure twice and drill once.
Tapping a hole is not much different than screwing a wood screw into a pre-drilled hole in
a board. If you really don't want to try doing it, you could go with tying the
swaybar and disconnects up with wire ties but really, that's what is so elegant about this
particular set - the fact that you HAVE a place to park the bar and disco once you
disconnect. For little trouble you have a great solution. The only thing I
think I will add to this that was not supplied is a few extra Clevis pins in my boonie box
so that I don't have to spend too much time fussing over a lost one. Most tractor
supply places have these things in spades for a couple bucks each so it's cheap enough to
In preparation for my
planned morning install work, I charged the batteries in the CamCorder (optional step),
squirted the nuts and bolts on the old sway bar connector bar with penetrating oil the
night before, so that it might help make removing the old nuts easier. I read and
re-read the instructions and learned the order of assembly, and other things so that by
the time I do the work, it will be pretty well embedded in my pea brain.
Don't remove the front tires
- it isn't really necessary. It would be nice but having weight on the front axle
makes it easier to take apart the swaybar connectors and is the only way to set the length
instructions start with installation of the new parts but do not deal with removing the
old parts. It actually took me longer to disassemble the stock connectors than it
did to install the new ones (Well that's the point isn't it?).
First, put the key in the
ignition and unlock it so you can turn the wheels left and right. Turn the wheels
all the way to the left. This will enable you to start on the drivers side
Remove Stock Sway
Here is a photo of the stock
connector with the top nut loosened just a bit. Remove the nut from the top, and the
bolt and nut from the bottom. Turn the wheels to the right and do the passenger
The bolt and nut on the top
and bottom, drivers-side came away very nicely with the T55 Torx key and the adjustable
wrench. The passenger-side one (shown above) was a lot more stubborn. I tried
partially unthreading, then backing it off, spraying with penetrating oil and then
unthreading again. Finally I abandoned protocol and put my big nasty vice grip on
the head of the bolt and then unceremoniously unthreaded the stubborn nut.
The top nut on both sides
unthreaded easily on both sides but the stud is caught in the swaybar and needs coaxing to
There's a right way and a
wrong way to remove this stud. It's just like tie-rod ends and should be removed
with a tie rod end fork (also known as a pickle fork). If you do suspension work you
probably have one around and will be able to pop this stud off the swaybar with no
trouble. There is also a device that presses studs out, and that will also work with
Even though I have restored
several cars and have rebuilt several front ends, I have stuck with a more primitive
approach - brute force. The problem with this approach is that you are committing to
discarding whatever you remove using this method. You will seldom be able to use the
part once removed. So if you want to save the stock connectors, use the pickle fork
or stud remover press. If you want to chance it and risk ruining the stock
connector, you can do what I did - thread the nut on to the top of the connector until it
is flush with the top of the stud, flip the swaybar down so it is up against the front
bumper, then wail on it with a 7 pound maul (BF-Hammer). It took about 5 sharp raps
with my well seasoned hammer to pop each stud from from the swaybar... The nuts are
pretty well toasted but they protected the studs on the connectors so I could reuse them
with new nuts.
This is what the suspension
on the drivers side looks like when the stock connector has been removed.
You have just completed the
Here is the complete text of
the JKS "Quick" Disconnects installation instructions I received (Model
2000). Please consult the instructions supplied with your parts in the event that
they supersede these:
INSTRUCTIONS ---- 2000,
2001, 2002 QD's
Disassemble U-Strap from
Top of Quick Disconnect by removing metric button head bolt.
Mount U-STRAP on top of swaybar using metric
button head bolt and nut provided. NUT SHOULD BE ON TOP OF U-STRAP.
not attempt to install the U-Strap below the swaybar. Use flat washers on bottom
side of XJ swaybars only. Do not use these flat washers on TJ applications.
Mount threaded leg of U-Strap inboard. See
[ppro comments: I followed this step as described and used BLUE
Threadlock on the nut that holds the u-strap to the swaybar.]
U-Strap must be mounted on
top of swaybar, NOT BELOW. Flat washers are for XJ Cherokee and
'93-'95 ZJ Grand Cherokee use only.
Click-Pin and Stainless Steel pin from bottom of Quick Disconnect.
Stainless Steel pin in OEM Axle Bracket. Make sure Click Pin hole is
horizontal to ground or close to it. Do not remove plastic spacer from Stainless
Steel pin. [ppro comments: I used a nail that fit into the
hole for the clevis pin, a piece of thick cloth, and some drop-jaw pliers to hold the
Stainless Steel (S.S.) pin in the desired position while tightening the bolt. I used
BLUE Threadlock on the bolt to help keep the S.S. pin from coming loose. The use of
the nail helps to immobilize the S.S. pin without applying gripping pressure on it.
The pin fits very precisely in the disconnect so I did not want to mar it with plier
marks. And I did not want to spoil the Click Pins. The nail was ruined but
should be commended for serving so well...]
position chart (Figure 1)
, determine what length your quick disconnect should be and adjust length
accordingly. Tighten jam nut only with both ends of the Quick Disconnect
laying on a flat surface. This will ensure that both bushing cradles remain
parallel with one another. Optimum swaybar position is plus or minus 3
degrees from 13 degress above horizontal.
comments: I used the stock connector to determine the length of the
"Quicker" Disconnects. It turned out that with no lift, the
"Quicker" Disconnect is completely closed up to its minimum length.]
adjusted quick disconnect to u-strap using the metric button head bolt in step 1.
Use [RED] LOCTITE on end of threads
of metric bolt to ensure this bolt does not come loose. Using a 6mm Allen
Head Socket torque this 45mm cross bolt to 40 ft/lbs. Make sure both sides
are of equal length. This can be fine tuned later of the Jeep does not sit level by
making one side longer than the other.
Simply slide the bottom bushing over the Stainless Steel pin (Step 2) and insert
Click Pin. This is how you will connect and disconnect.
[ppro comments: It was REALLY easy to connect. What did I
expect? The Jeep is parked in the driveway on level ground. Still, this is
Some XJ and ZJ owners cannot use the storage pin provided
but will have to
rely on plastic wire ties or rubber bands provided to hold the Quick Disconnects up out of
the way. Secure in such a way so tire does not rub the Quick Disconnect at full
lock. Note: XJ, ZJ Owners with OEM front skid plate option can use
both storage pins, simply drill side of skid plate and insert storage pin bolt
using a nylock nut.
Owners. Install the Storage Pins on both sides of frame by drilling frame
with "F" drill bit and tapping holes with 5/16" 18 thread. Make sure
you install Storage Pins in such a location so Quick Disconnect will easily move to it
[ppro comments: This was very straight forward. I simply made my
drift mark, carefully placed the "F" Bit (17/64"), and drilled with one
hand while drizzling oil from my little oil can with the other. I let the drill bit
do the work and in a few minutes I went through. The tap ended up not fitting the
handle the the sales clerk selected for me (why do I let these people help me?) so I took
a chance and ran the tap with my adjustable wrench. I oiled the tap and the hole,
put the tip of the tap in the hole, pressed in hard and slowly turned the tap about 1/12
of a turn. Once it "bit" the hole, and took hold, I just turned it a
little while pressing hard, backed it off the same amount, oiled, turned it a little
further then back, repeating until it got easier and the tap started threading into the
hold like a bolt. I backed it out, cleaned the hole and the tap, oiled both, then ran the tap in like a bolt all the way
to the end. The threads were nice and clean. I backed the tap out, cleaned
the hole, put BLUE threadlock on the 5/16" bolt and the hole, then threaded the
Storage Pin into place. Piece 'o Cake.
Quick Disconnects do not come pre-greased. Grease each unit after
installation using common wheel bearing grease or equivalent.
took off the pretty little red caps that came covering the grease zerks, shot some grease
in them, then replaced the pretty little caps]
2000 DO NOT EXCEED
9.375" CENTER TO CENTER BUSHING DISTANCE.
2001 DO NOT EXCEED 11.625" CENTER TO CENTER BUSHING DISTANCE.
2002 DO NOT EXCEED 7.125" CENTER TO CENTER BUSHING DISTANCE.
WARRANTY WILL BE
VOID IF THESE MEASUREMENTS ARE NOT STRICTLY ADHERED TO.
DISCONNECT FOR OFFROAD USAGE!