In July of 2003, I purchased a heavy duty rear bumper from Jared at Comp 4x4.  I painted it and installed it as soon as I got it and have been very happy to have it ever since then.

Jared stopped by once at the old house and we spoke a few times on the phone.  He was getting his business started, and was very nice about listening to my ideas about Jeeps and stuff.  He promised to send to me some rear bumper frame tie-in mounting brackets when he got them designed and manufactured.  True to his word, he sent them to me and of course, just like the bumper, I had to go right out and install them on the Jeep.

But first I had to take care of a couple things.  First, I needed to pick up some hardware to mount the brackets.  And secondly, I needed to remove the old rear tow hooks that I had installed over 5 1/2 years ago.  During the installation of the rear bumper, I had contemplated removing the tow hooks because I would not need them anymore.  The new bumper has d-shackle tabs that replace the tow hook function.  But at that time the tow hooks weren't in the way so I just left them where they were.

I finally had to remove the tow hooks.  That was fun...

It was a real pain.  The tow hook had pulled the frame a little bit so the bolts were probably bent.  And they had been put on without anti-seize compound by accident on the driver's side.  So I had to grind off the bolt heads and then grind, hammer, and grind for two hours to get it off.  The passenger side, I ground the bolt heads off and they came right off.  Then I prepped the frame for the new brackets by cleaning off the grease and grime, and painting some rust-inhibiting paint.

I took a drive to Lowe's and purchased the necessary hardware and supplies.  Hardened fasteners aren't cheap and neither are cobalt drill bits.  But these are holding the bumper on and drilling through a steel frame isn't the same as drilling pine wood...

Qty	Item	Part Number
1	DeWALT Pilot Point Cobalt Drill 1/2"	DW1232
6	Hillman Hex Cap Screws Grade 8 USS 1/2-13 x 1 1/2"	H# 880208
10	Hillman Hex Nuts Grade 8 USS 1/2-13	H# 882537
13	Hillman SAE Flat Washers Hardened 1/2"	H# 882536
10	Hillman Split  Lock Washers 1/2" Alloy Steel	H# 123088
4	Hillman Hex Cap Screws Grade 8 7/16-14 x 1 1/2"	H#880199
6	Hillman Hex Nuts Grade 8 USS 7/16-14	H# 880271
4	Hillman Flat Washers Hardened 7/16"	H# 880115
10	Hillman Split Lock Washers 7/16" Alloy Steel	H# 882532
1	Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant 8 oz	80078

 

After purchasing the materials, it was really just basic assembly work.

I put the pieces together loosely to locate the spot to drill the third hole in the frame.  Two of the holes on the bracket line up with stock holes on the frame.  The third hole (the one the most distant from the bumper, must be drilled.  I had holes from my tow hooks but unfortunately they were not located in the same spot as the hole for the bracket.

I marked the drilling location with a center punch.  Then I removed the bracket and set the parts aside.  Then I drilled.  With the cobalt drill, the holes were done in no time flat.

I had more fun assembling the hardware because the nuts and bolts must be fished into the frame through a small hole below the mounting holes.  These holes are normally used for a factory tow hitch that comes with special nuts that have handles on them, making it possible to put them up into the frame cavity and get them started on the bolts.  My hardware simply had to be blindly fed up into the cavity and balanced and finessed onto the bolts.

With some anti-seize lubricant on the bolts to make them a little sticky (and to make removing them remotely possible someday) I assembled the brackets to the frame.  I put hardened washers on both sides of the frame with the bolt passing through, then a lock washer and finally the nut.  I used the 7/16" nuts and bolts on the cross member because that's what was there before.  I used the 1/2" nuts and bolts on the frame because they matched the holes.  I could have probably used 1/2" all around as the holes are large enough on the cross member.

When I finished, I was happy to see that the brackets fit perfectly and clearly provide the necessary support for the rear bumper that is lacking in the cross member, which is not very thick.  This will give me the proper solid mounting for using the rear bumper as a tow point (it has a 2" receiver hitch); as a recovery point (with the d-shackle tabs welded all the way through the bumper to the mounting points).

 

Thanks to Jared at Comp 4x4 for these high-quality, extreme-duty parts!

Here's the full description from his web site:

REAR BUMPER FRAME TIE IN MOUNTING BRACKETS Laser cut with precision bending. Manufactured from 1/4" thick steel for heavy duty applications. Available for Jeep Wranglers 1976-2006 (CJ/YJ/TJ/LJ) This product is a must for anyone carrying over a 31" tire and/or using a tire carrier. Since the stock rear cross members of Jeeps are thin and not made to carry added weight, this is the best possible solution and upgrade you can do. The gas tank etc. does not need to be dropped. Some YJ/TJ Jeeps that are using aftermarket shackles etc. may have to make modifications to fit. This is a quick and easy install that anyone can do with a few wrenches. Kit includes the brackets and all needed mounting hardware. Brackets come stock in black color. Brackets use stock bolt hole locations, but offer additional mounting holes if you desire to drill into the frame for additional mounting points. Please specify year of Jeep at time of purchase so we can get you the correct brackets. Part # FTB0001