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Infinity Systems

Basslink - Click to Enlarge

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After installing a new head unit and upgraded speakers, I found the improvement over the factory stereo to be very worthwhile.  But I soon realized I was missing something:  Bottom End.   The tweeters and midranges are great but without solid bass, it just wasn't complete.  My home system has a full range of sound, and the bass is so solid you can feel it.  I needed this in the Jeep!

Asking around, I learned that enclosed, self-powered subwoofers are a good choice for Jeeps because of the space-savings.  One name kept coming up - Infinity Basslink.

I took a look on the web and found plenty of information.   The specs are good.  The price put me off initially.  I couldn't find a good discount until I checked eBay.  I found several sellers offering them for less than half off suggested list price.  That changed everything.

Next began a waiting game while some household economics got attention.  Finally the taxes were done and a little extra money surfaced.   My wife got some porch furniture and carpeting, and I decided it was time to claim some Willys Points and get the subwoofer.

I had been watching one seller in particular because his shipping was significantly cheaper than the others offering the unit.  I managed to win one of his auctions and, after some mild thrashing around with Pay Pal, got it paid and in the mail.  Incredibly, the next morning after paying the seller, my son Teddy came to me and said that there was a speaker sitting where we get our packages.  Huh?   Thinking his mother had put him up to it as a way to taunt me, I told him he must be mistaken, but ultimately could not resist taking a look.  Much to my surprise, there was a speaker sitting there!  Sometimes I am amazed at the speed that things can happen on the internet.  Maybe it's the broadband I installed a couple months ago?

I retrieved the package and went about my day, looking forward to installing it at the first available opportunity.  Of course, that meant running an errand first.  A quick read of the installation instructions showed that I would need to get some 12-gauge wire for the power lead.  I also needed an inline 20 amp fuse for the power lead.  And not least, two long leads to connect the pre-amp outputs to the subwoofer.  I already had some wire sufficiently large enough for the remote shut-off lead.

What I hadn't counted on was the size of the unit.   I found that it fits in my Add-A-Trunk space in the back of my Jeep - JUST...   I don't think I will be able to use the mounting brackets that come with the unit unless I remove the Add-A-Trunk.  And I am not sure I want to do that...  After getting all the wiring parts from Radio Shack, it was cool and dark outside so I covered up the Jeep and left the fun for first thing in the morning.

The wiring layout is pretty simple:

Connect the pre-amp outputs from the head unit to the subwoofer.

Run a power lead to the battery with the inline 20a fuse.

Ground the subwoofer to the body.

Run the remote power relay lead from the head unit to the subwoofer.

The drawings might make it look more complicated than it really is, but I provide them for my own future reference...


Wiring

The only thing that disappointed me about the Infinity Basslink package was the lack of power leads and the assumption that people would be using speaker-level output to connect to the subwoofer.   I guess that must be the most common configuration.  As such, there was a whole bunch of wire and connectors that I could not use.  And I would have to make up (or purchase) my own power leads.  Here is what I ended up using to make the connections:

  • (2) 20-foot, 12-gauge power and ground leads

  • (2) shielded, 12-foot leads with RCA connectors on both ends

  • (2) shielded, 6-foot RCA extensions

  • (2) lug connectors for battery (+) and (-) (to fit 12g wire)

  • (1) 12-gauge, 20-amp inline fuse holder

  • (1) 14-gauge, 20 foot remote power on lead

  • (1) spade connector (male) (to fit 14g wire)

  • (1) spade connector (female) (to fit 14g wire)

  • loom covering (3/8") for power leads

  • loom covering (1/4") for signal leads

  • wire-ties

  • electrical tape

  • (1) 18-foot RJ-11 lead (provided in Infinity Basslink kit)

 

Pre-amp and power relay leads
Power and amp relay leads
basslink panel detail

 

In actual practice, the wiring was fairly time consuming.  The wires needed to be routed from the front of the vehicle to the back, through all manner of obstacles.  My goal was to make it as clean as possible.   I also wanted to choose a path that avoided passing things that generate electrical interference (noise), like fan motors, my air compressor, the fuel pump, stuff like that.

First I put connectors on the power and ground leads.  On the plus (+) lead, I installed a fuse holder and 20-amp fuse.   I decided to install a floating ground.  I did this mainly because I didn't want to drill any holes in the floor of the vehicle, and the grounding of the remaining items (primarily the Add-A-Trunk) were dubious at best.  Once the connectors were on, I ran the wire across the firewall, next to the main wiring harness, then down and through the same large hole that I have run everything else, coming through in the passenger compartment just above and to one side of the gas pedal.

Power Lead (Red) Path

From there I routed the pair underneath the driver's side edge of the console past the driver's seat to where the main part of the console goes up to the armrest.  There I threaded the lead under the console and out the other side, adjacent to the passenger seat about where the jack is stored.  I ran the leads under the seat rails and out of the way of moving parts, to the outside edge of the tub near the main sport bar vertical that runs from floor to roof-height.  There, I ran the leads along the outside edge of the floor under the carpet, up onto the floor and along the rear edge to the corner where the Add-A-Trunk has holes leading to the rear compartment.  I passed the leads behind the seat mounting hardware so that it would not get caught on the seat, and through the bottom hole into the rear compartment.

Path of Power, ground and remote on leads - Click to Enlarge

Next I remove the snap-on panel that covers the top of the dash, then the two screws that hold the top of the center dash fascia.  The screw behind the ash tray was next to come out.  Then I removed the faceplate on the stereo to make it easier to remove the dash center portion.  With this out, I removed the radio after the two screws that hold it in place.

On the back of the radio are two line-level subwoofer outputs (RCA plugs).  There is also a remote relay lead that is used for things like subwoofers and power radio antennas.  I put a connector on the remote relay lead and it's companion coming out of the head unit.  Since it was included in the harness but lead to a dead pin slot (no surprise, there is no factory power antenna on the Wrangler), I had to remove it from the harness before putting the spade foot connector on it.  My reasoning was that I may want to remove the radio and the connector would make it easier.  I used the same blue lead (14g) as the one coming off the head unit (why not?).  I routed it down into the dash and along the same path as the power leads.

The RCA leads from the pre-amp subwoofer outputs were next.  Due to the RCA connectors on the shielded leads, they would not fit through the same path as the power leads.  I don't know that I would have routed them that way anyway since it is generally not a good idea to associate power leads with wires carrying program signals.  Instead, I dropped them down through the dash, along the bottom edge of the dash to the factory loom that runs along the driver's side, below the door, then up to the top edge of the tub.  At the back corner of the tub, I ran the wires under the seat belt winder, and down to the floor, through the hole in the Add-A-Trunk to the rear of the Jeep.  I used 12-foot shielded leads that got as far as the Add-A-Trunk, then six-foot extensions to give me some extra inside the rear compartment.

Path of Left and Right Pre-amp output leads - Click to Enlarge

Last, I ran the Remote Level Control wire (an RJ-11 lead!) along the same path as the subwoofer pre-amp outputs.  I fished the end that plugs into the knob up through the driver's side corner of the dash, coming out near the windshield.  I contemplated mounting the knob into the panel next to my headlight switch but changed my mind.  Even though the instructions recommend this option, the knob is mounted on a small circuit board that gets its strength from the enclosure it comes in.  Once removed from there, it is quite vulnerable, and appears to be easy to break.  Also, the knob would have fallen to where my knee is when I get into the Jeep.  I don't need to break the knob (or bust my knee), so instead I just put the knob on the top corner of the dash and screwed it into place.

Subwoofer Remote Level Control - Click to Enlarge

I took a break for lunch while I reviewed the wiring schematics, and ran through my head any things I might have forgotten.   When I went back, I ran some loom covering over the wires to collect them together and to protect them from whatever.  I wire-tied everything so the wires would not drop down from their respective paths, and also to keep them out of harms way in a couple spots where moving parts are nearby.

Connections - Click to Enlarge

Finally the moment of truth.  I was a little self-conscious about it.  I must admit that I see people booming down the road and have unkind thoughts, yet here I am installing a subwoofer and amp...  My intention is to get better bottom-end and fill in some of the missing parts of the music.   I'm not really looking to make an impression on people 50 feet away in another car.   But here comes the install instructions, telling me to crank the head unit up to 75% to do the initial calibration settings...  Needless to say, with the doors off and the top down, that's disruptive...  Well, I went ahead and did it, quickly making the settings and making sure that the servo-limiter was not kicking in full-time.  I also made sure that the alternator was not working too hard and the battery was holding it's charge.  Between the winch and the subwoofer, I'm probably going to be looking at a Mean Green Alternator pretty soon here...

The point of all this, of course, is better music.  I am happy to report that I achieved that goal.  Also, the remote level control helps me get the kick I want without sharing with my neighbors on the road.   Well, maybe not all the time...

 

Device Specifications

 

Infinity Basslink - Click to Enlarge PSU_BSL_hd.gif (805 bytes)
Specifications
Dimensions (H x W x D): 14-1/2" x 12-1/2" x 8"
MSRP U.S. $: 499.95
Power Output: 200W
Frequency Response (3dB): 20Hz - 100Hz
Variable Bass EQ: +3dB to -6dB at 45Hz
Variable Electronic Crossover: 70Hz - 100Hz
 

Owner's Manual for:
• BASSLINK om.pdf

BASSLINK
Self-Amplified Subwoofer System

  • Infinity, the inventor of servo-controlled subwoofer systems, has adapted the technology developed for the finest home-audio loudspeakers to create BassLink, a groundbreaking automotive powered subwoofer. BassLink sets a new standard for in-vehicle bass reproduction.
  • Four low-level inputs provide non-fading bass. Four high-level inputs also provide non-fading bass and the ability to easily interface BassLink with most factory sound systems.
  • BassLink can be mounted vertically or horizontally thanks to its unique mounting system. Basslink provides user-adjustable input sensitivity, crossover frequency and bass-boost, allowing BassLink's performance to be optimized for any installation.
  • BassLink features a 200W Class D subwoofer amplifier that provides all the horsepower needed to drive the 10" subwoofer/10" passive radiator combination.

 

For years, manufacturers have attempted to create a plug-and-play bass solution for car audio. One that delivers thunderous bass but occupies a minimum of space. Constrained by traditional technologies, past attempts have failed. Infinity, inventor of servo-controlled subwoofer systems, has adapted the technology developed for its finest home audio loudspeakers to create BassLink, a groundbreaking automotive subwoofer. BassLink–setting the new standard.

If you are looking for quality bass reproduction
for your car without sacrificing significant space,
then look no further than BassLink.

Harman International Industries, Incorporated

Designed to deliver low frequencies in virtually any car audio system, BassLink truly has universal appeal. Small in size but big in output, BassLink requires a mere .75 cubic feet of trunk space yet produces enough bass to wake up the neighborhood.

BassLink consists of a 10-inch subwoofer, 10-inch passive radiator and a 200-watt Class D amplifier housed in a rigid polymer enclosure, all carefully engineered to work together as a unique, integrated system. The extremely versatile BassLink accepts both speaker- and line-level inputs, and it provides an internal low-pass filter, proprietary signal processing and abundant amplification.

The BassLink system features a servo-control circuit that continually monitors the voice coil’s position in the magnetic gap and prevents the distortion that occurs when a conventional woofer is overdriven. By integrating cone-excursion information with the instantaneous demands of the music, BassLink can extract loud and deep bass from an enclosure smaller than any before.

BassLink includes a fixed, 2nd-order, high-pass filter that eliminates the possibility of over-excursion below Fb, the resonant (tuned) frequency of the vented box. This allows the excursion-monitoring circuit to focus on the excursion at the more meaningful frequencies at and above Fb. The result is a significant increase in bass output.

User-adjustable controls allow listeners to set the system’s response to achieve optimum performance based on the vehicle’s cabin gain or transfer function. These controls include: a 0- or 180-degree phase switch; a continuously variable electronic low-pass filter that is adjustable between 70 and 100Hz; variable input sensitivity; and Bass EQ that provides for adjustments between +3 and –6dB. BassLink’s frequency response in a typical vehicle is 20 to 100Hz (3dB), but this varies according to the vehicle and user adjustments. At maximum gain, the system can accept inputs as low as 250mV.

BassLink can accept up to four channels of input – to provide nonfading bass – either from line-level signals through four RCA jacks or from high-level signals through a pair of Molex connectors, allowing BassLink to be easily connected to OEM systems. If using the speaker-level inputs, an audio-sense circuit will turn on the amplifier whenever a signal is present. If the RCAs are used, a 12-volt, remote-turn-on lead is required. The system has barrier strip connections for power, ground and remote turn-on.


Performance Details
10" subwoofer and 10" passive radiator
BassLink can be mounted vertically or horizontally using its unique mounting system.
BassLink provides user-adjustable input sensitivity, crossover frequency and bass-boost. This allows BassLink's performance to be optimized for any installation.
Four low-level inputs provide nonfading bass.
High-level inputs allow interface with most factory systems.
200-Watt Class-D amplification.
Rigid-polymer chassis withstands the rigors of the road.

 

Infinity Basslink  (Owners Manual - Adobe Acrobat PDF)

 

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