KC Daylighters

Dead-On - Click to Enlarge

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KC Daylighters


Update: Deer Strike 11/28/05

Update:  Stone Shields 12/23/05

Update:  Black Paint 6/30/07

4X4 ICON 2000 - 2008 The DVD! - Click here for details!

4X4 ICON 2000 - 2008 The DVD!

These are the ones we installed (above)

More below...

Quite some time ago I had installed some driving lights on the front bumper.  Well, I ran the wiring and got everything connected,  When I flipped the switch, it blew a fuse.  I had run out of time and never bothered to figure out what the problem was.  For a couple years they stayed there with covers over them.  I suspect I got a reputation for having lights on my Jeep that didn't work...

Ted and Papi

When I had the accident in October of 2004 one of the lights got knocked off.  The insurance company replaced both lights with a complete set of KC Daylighters.  I asked the body shop to let me install them and took them home in a box. 

I got a new front bumper as a result of the same crash and realized that I was going to have to find brackets to fit the lights.  The ones sold by the manufacturer of the bumper stack under the tow hooks.  This would be fine except that in addition to the tow hooks I have the winch plate.  This makes the bolts too short to add yet another piece of metal.

I looked around and found a solution:   right-hand corner brackets.  They are used to build used to build truck racks, removable gates, knockdown crates, and fence sections.  They were perfect for mounting my lights.  They came powder coated, pre-drilled with three holes, and a platform large enough to mount the light.

Right-hand corner brackets McMaster-Carr part number 18445A51 End Gate Left Corner Fastener Northern Tool Part Number 12725

I found mine at Ace Hardware but they are also available at McMaster-Carr and Northern Tool

McMaster-Carr 18445A51
Heavy Duty Steel Bracket Right Hand, Corner Style, 5-3/8" L X 2-1/2" H
Northern Tool
End Gate Left Corner Fastener Northern Tool Part Number 12725
End Gate Right Corner Fastener Northern Tool Part Number 12726

I had only to drill one hole and I was ready to begin the installation.

Well, more accurately I had two holes to drill in the brackets and six holes to drill in the bumper.  After drilling the holes I tapped them so I could bolt the brackets onto the back of the bumper with 5/16-18 x 1" bolts with lock washers.  I used zinc plated bolts rather than stainless steel because the dissimilar metals (mild steel bumper and stainless steel bolts) would cause a galvanic reaction and cause the bumper to rust prematurely.

I used the same drill and tap that I had used to install the sway bar disconnects.

Tap and Drill Bit

I located the spot I wanted the lights to occupy - just far enough outboard to allow for some clearance for the two hoods and winch, but no so far as to obscure the turn signals.

I marked the location by placing a piece of brown packing tape under the bracket and used and magic marker to draw the holes onto the bumper.  I double checked that the holes were correct then used a center punch to mark them for drilling.

I drilled the holes with an "F" bit.  It went easily then I tapped out the holes, painted the new threads, then installed the bracket with new bolts and lock washers.  Then I sprayed a little black paint on the bolts to tone them down.

Bracket from Garage Door Hardware - Click to Enlarge

I measured the distance from the end of the bumper to the center of the bracket I had installed and marked off the same distance on the other side, then drilled the three holes, tapped them and installed the bracket.

I mounted the lights to the brackets and found that they probably need to be set back a little so they do not protrude past the bumper.  In a light encounter with another car or a tree in the woods, it would be nice to have the lights stay in one piece.  I will get longer bolts and some sort of spacer to set them back perhaps 1/4" or 1/2" - just enough to do the job.

Installed - Click to Enlarge

That finished the easy part.  Now I had to route all that wire from the power source to the lights and from the power source to a switch in the cab.  I passed the wires to the lights through the holes in the bottom of the grill and up to the lights. 

Wiring to Lamp - Click to EnlargeWiring to Lamp - Click to Enlarge

I passed the wires from the power to the switch through the same big grommet in the firewall as everything else.


I put a connector on the power lead that connects to the low beams, high beams or optionally the battery.  I chose to connect this to the battery.  I connected the power wire to the battery as well.  I connected the ground wire from the relay to the fender using one of the screws that holds the relay box next to the air filter box. 

Fuses - Click to EnlargeRelay - Click to Enlarge

Once the wires were threaded through the fire wall I removed the panel below the steering wheel and the center surround from the dash that has the junk tray and ash tray.  For me this part has become a mounting point for three GPS receivers and my hands-free cell phone.  So removing it takes a few more steps than just popping the vent panel from the top of the dash, removing the two top screws and the screw behind the ash tray then popping it off.  But pretty soon I had it all exposed.

The last time I installed lights I had drilled a hole in the blank panel that covered the toggle switch for the factory lights.   I found that this hole was the correct size for the new switch that came with the KC's so I removed the switch I had purchased and installed the new switch.  I screwed the ground wire to the metal panel that holds the cover on the instrument cluster after first checking to see if it was indeed a good ground.

I tested the lights and they worked.   Ha!  Too easy.  Well at least in terms of the basic connections.  It took a fair amount of time to drill for the brackets, route the wires and install the switch.  Now I had to reassemble the dash, dress the wires, and aim the lights.   Sheesh!

Switch in Cab (Off) - Click to EnlargeSwitch in Cab (On) - Click to Enlarge

I got the Jeep lined up on the garage door.  I measured the distance between centers on the lights: 42".  I shot a straight line to the garage door from the center of the lights and got a theoretical point where each lamp should hit. 

Instructions for aiming (Used without permission from KC)

Then I turned on the lights and adjusted them until they hit my mark. 

Pattern on Garage Door - Click to Enlarge

A drive on the road later revealed that they might be aimed a little bit low as they hit the ground about 50-60 feet ahead.   I think I might want them to project out a bit further but I will fine tune this over the next few days.

With the lights aimed for a starting point, I dressed the wires.  This meant cleaning up the routing and then putting all the wires inside loom covers and wire-tying them to stationary anchors like other looms or brackets.  I collected all the extra wire and encased it in larger looms so it would stay out of the way.  I made sure I had enough spare wire around the battery so I could disconnect the battery and remove it without having to disassemble the connections.

These lights blaze!  After driving a few minutes with them a car came towards me.  I turned them off and suddenly felt like I was driving in the dark.  The stock lights seemed dim, even though I routinely get flashed by oncoming traffic thinking I have left my high-beams on.

The only thing I do not like about them is that they are chrome...  I may have to paint them black...

Since installing the lights I wired up a warning buzzer and warning light system so that I would not forget to turn them off when I shut off the Jeep and leave them on.

On - Click to Enlarge
Dead On - Click to Enlarge

Driving Lights Installed - Click to Enlarge
TJ with Driving Lights (Next to the rest of the "fleet") - Click to Enlarge

Update: 11/28/05

Deer Strike!

Ted and I had some work to do on the Jeep...  Monday morning I hit a deer on Route 79 on the way to work...  I was doing the speed limit (70 mph) and a little skipper jumped up onto the breakdown lane.  It stopped long enough to look me straight in the eye and then it decided to make for the other side of the road.  Directly across my path.  About the time it looked at me, I was hoping it would stay put and moved smoothly to the left lane in hopes I would get past it without touching it.  Instead it was like shouting "PULL!" at a skeet shoot, following the disc through the air and then pulling the trigger when you had it tracked...  BAM!  Only I didn't have a shotgun and it wasn't skeet.  It was the deer stretched out trying to claw past me and instead taking the full brunt of my front bumper from one end to the other.  After the Jeep hit it, I felt it go under the wheels and chassis and saw it prostrate in the middle of the road behind me, dead as a doornail.  Great...  I was fine; nothing came through the windshield, but I stopped to take inventory.

The front bumper had serious chunks of deer where the d-shackles are mounted; there was hair everywhere.

Carnage - Click to Enlarge - Caution - Graphic Image, May Not be Suitable for Some Audiences...

The left-front driving light was smashed and pushed back into the left-front fender which now had a crescent-shaped dent where the lamp housing fit neatly... 

Detail of Light and Fender Damage - Click to Enlarge
Smashed Driving LightDetail of Light DamageInside Fender View of Fender Damage and Light Damage

Inside Fender View of Fender Damage and Light Damage - Click to Enlarge

The lamp bracket was bent back, the lamp housing had some scuffs and a couple small dents.

Lamp Bracket Damage - Click to Enlarge
Lamp Bracket Damage

And that was it.  No damage to the bumper itself; no damage to anything else at all.

Frontal damage
Frontal Damage - Click to Enlarge

The steering linkage was fine, nothing else was bent, and there was nothing but hair everywhere underneath...  Grateful doesn't even begin to describe how I felt.  I said a little prayer for the deer and continued on to work where I added my debacle to the collection of stories about my boss who has hit five or six...  I am hoping my fortune is not as good (or as bad) as his...

So Ted and I spent the morning doing work on the Jeep.  We removed a damaged driving light, disassembled it, removed the broken lamp lens and set the pieces aside after tapping the dents out of it with a piece of wood and a hammer.  Next we removed and straightened out the bracket that it was mounted on, then repainted it and the spot where it mounts on the front bumper, then Ted put it back on the bumper.  I had ordered a replacement lens and lamp. 

6" Lens / Reflector - Long Range # 4213

Bulb: 100w H3 Halogen - # 2767

6 inch Lens / Reflector - Long Range 4213Bulb: 100w H3 Halogen - 2767

We also bent the lens protector back into shape and Ted painted it.  I started thinking about replacing them since they were getting long in the tooth...

After that, we spent a few minutes installing the right-rear fender well liner that had been knocked off and left behind when my tire blew out a few months ago.  That was fairly easy except for the last fastener that was between the frame and the spot on the body where it attached to the front edge of the liner.  But I got it installed...  Ted knows another new swear word.  With the lamp removed and the other parts repaired, I snapped the GPSr into the Jeep, loaded Ted up and hit the road to verify some routes.


Update 12/23/05

Not much more to tell about the deer strike except that I replaced a lens and bulb when they arrived.  The installation of the new bulb and lens was a five minute job.

Stone Guards

After I swapped the stone guards off the headlights to the driving lights I noticed some purpose built stone guards listed in the 4 Wheel Drive Hardware catalog.  They're made to fit KC cost of the stone guards.  So I called up and ordered them, chipping in the couple bucks.  The very next day they came!  I installed them in about two minutes by simply unscrewing the front bezel and slipping the three ears of the stone guards under then tightening the screw back up.

I haven't had a chance to take a picture of the result on my Jeep but it's a definite improvement over what I had before, at least as far as looks go!

Installed Rock GuardsInstalled Rock GuardsInstalled Rock Guards
Installed Rock Guards - Click to Enlarge


Update 6/30/07

While I was working on other front end things I decided to paint the chrome light housings, retaining rings and guards black.  I cleaned all the parts, sanded them with fine paper to roughen them up, then painted first with POR-15 and then with a top coat to prevent the UV from turning the black POR-15 gray.

While I was at it I replaced the large rubber gaskets, the small o-rings on the back of the housings, a reflector lens that had gotten damaged when we went too deep in a mud hole...

Black Driving Lights

Driving Light

Jeep after front-end painting and winch repair


  Replacement Parts - Daylighter / Shockmounted Series

Exploded View


Size Specifications
Part #
Part #
Description / Lens Finish Watts Beam
Lens/ Reflector   Bulb Bulb Holder  Bezel
237 1237 Daylighter - Long Range Chrome 100 240,000 4213 2767 3028 3027
238 1238 Daylighter - Long Range Black 100 240,000 4213 2767 3028 3026
239 1239 Daylighter - Long Range Stainless Steel 100 240,000 4213 2767 3028 3042
250 1250 Daylighter - Long Range Titanium Finish 130 300,000 4213 2763 3028 3035
622 1622 Daylighter - Long Range Chrome 150 385,000 - 2627 3028 3027
623 1623 Daylighter - Long Range Black 150 385,000 - 2627 3028 3026
624 1624 Daylighter - Long Range Stainless Steel 150 385,000 - 2627 3028 3042
- 1603 Buggy Headlight Black 37/60 N/A - 2104 3028 3026
- 1604 Buggy Headlight Chrome 37/60 N/A - 2104 3028 3027
- 1608 Flood Stainless Steel 100 21,000 4219 2767 3028 3042
- 1609 Flood Black 100 21,000 4219 2767 3028 3026
- 1619 Flood Chrome 100 21,000 4219 2767 3028 3027
- 1676 Daylighter - Driving Chrome 100 120,000 4205 2767 3028 3027
- 1677 Daylighter - Driving Black 100 120,000 4205 2767 3028 3026
- 1678 Daylighter - Driving Stainless Steel 100 120,000 4205 2767 3028 3042
- 1686 Fog - Clear Chrome 100 40,000 4206 2767 3028 3027
- 1686A Fog - Amber Chrome 37.5 8,800 - 2191 3028 3027
- 1687 Fog - Clear Black 100 40,000 4206 2767 3028 3026
- 1687A Fog - Amber Black 37.5 8,800 - 2191 3028 3026
- 1688 Fog - Clear Stainless Steel 100 40,000 4206 2767 3028 3042
- 1629 24v Fog Black 100 N/A 4206 2769 3028 3026
- 1233D 24V - Long Range Black 100 N/A 4213 2769 3028 3026
  7203 6" Rock Shield Chrome (all) N/A -      


These are the ones we installed (above)

More below...


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