Installation

The installation of this group of components is extremely challenging.  There are many connections to the car wiring harness.  Additionally, there are several components that make up this functional unit so there are a number of connections just to configure the basic boxes and display. And there are some things that are not documented in the owners and installation guides...  I did not get much satisfaction calling and writing to Pioneer.  The web site support responds by saying I need to call.  Then the person I talk to when I call reads the manual to me...

Bench Testing

Make no mistake - without the very detailed wiring and installation plans, a clean, organized installation of this many components, with this many wires and connections, success would be at risk, and troubleshooting nearly impossible.  So if you have just glossed over the wire diagrams, comments about RPM calibration, coils, power and so on, and think you can just grab your boxes and run out to the car - stop!

I had the benefit of assembling the circuit diagram from all the sources (factory service manual, navigation radio installation manual, Pioneer component installation guides, and the MSD interface guide, I feel ready.  That right there is almost 20 hours of "studying".

I am still not ready to get into the car.  First I decided to assemble the units on the bench.  This required the purchase of a 120 volt to 12 volt converter.  Don't go buy a dinky one at WalMart.  Those are made for powering little devices with 100-300ma power requirements (that's no more than a third of an amp).  The Pioneer devices take as much as two amps each.  Just for fun I tried to power them using a 300ma converter.  Nothing worked.  Not enough power.

I purchased a unit meant to power small 12v cooler that puts out six amps continuously.  Watch out for some units for sale that only put out a rated amperage for a short time.  You may want more test time than the unit can be run!  Here's the one I got.  A good compromise between price and power output, with 100% duty cycle (that means it can run continuously).

With this device, I had a suitable test set up and I was ready to start putting things together.

First I assembled the control units to their respective devices - the AVG-VDP1 to the AVD-W63210 Hide-Away unit.

Next I put connectors on all the wires.  With these basic steps done it was time to test for basic operation of the display and processor.

I was happy to find that the display powered up and the AVG-VDP1 ran through it's start-up screens.  The menus all worked and the GPS soon acquired several satellites (with the satellite antenna placed outside with open sky above it.  Since the live screens were pretty dull because the unit was not moving, here are some of the demo screens that to photographed on the bench.

With these basics out of the way I knew that the boxes and display work and I moved my attention to the car.  It needs to have wiring harnesses fitted, connection points selected, clean harness extensions, and connectors put in place.  That kept me busy for a a few hours...

Monitor Installation

I chose to install the touch-screen monitor on my existing Panavise bracket that holds my GPS, radar detector and BassLink Remotes.  I was necessary to add an extension bracket, reinforce it with a short piece of aluminum angle-stock, modify the swivel head so the monitor would remain close to the bracket, and to manage some wires.  With this out of the way (no small task as the bracket parts had to be custom made and hardware to fit purchased and tested.  While the end result is by no means pretty, it does allow the glove compartment to be opened easily, and does not wobble around or obscure the view through the front window.

 

Speed and Reverse Signals

I relied heavily on the factory service manual for the Crossfire (to understand the various control modules in the car, the location and ratings of various signal sources; the installation guide for the Crossfire factory navigation radio (provides the best connection locations for the Speed signal and Reverse Switch controls).

The drawing that follows comes from the Crossfire Factory Installation Guide for the Factory Navigation Radio.  It shows the location of the Speed Signal and (if you like it) the reverse signal.  This is how Chrysler recommends making these connections.

Here's an alternative to the reverse signal that I opted to use.  I didn't want to cut into the harness shown in the drawing.  It was just too neat and tidy to start hacking into.  But what really convinced me to go another route was the fact that the lead would have to run the length of the car to the components in the rear.  Why not just use the reverse lamp lead in the back of the car and have a short run to the component?

It's the 12-volt lead to the lamp (Gray/Yellow) wire that connects pin 5 on either the right or left rear lamp assembly, concealed behind a removable panel.  I found it easy to snake the wire up behind the interior trim panel from below and attach using the same approach shown in the splicing illustrations above.  I added a connector to the new piece of wire so that I could later remove the lead without unsoldering the lead.

RPM Signal

The most challenging part of this installation is the identification of a suitable power source for the ignition-controlled 12v lead.  The issue is that this unit uses vehicle engine RPM as a key component of data in its calculation of the various outputs.  Without an accurate RPM reading, the unit is useless.

It may not seem a very tough thing.  Indeed, at first I read the manual and saw only 12v leads for continuous (battery) power and switched power.  But then thinking about my Pioneer DEH-P980BT and the Vehicle Dynamics it offers, I recalled that the RPM calibration doesn't work.  I got to thinking about this and got on the web.  And it didn't take long before I discovered a dirty little secret about this device - many people have been unable to calibrate RPM's and so the unit is practically useless to them.  I was determined to figure out what almost everyone else had missed (including the support line at Pioneer...).

The problem for all of them is simple - newer cars use breakerless, electronic ignition.  These vehicles have a coil bank or coils for each spark plug.  Additionally, these cars (and the Crossfire has gone to great length here) have very elaborate noise-suppression circuits to prevent ignition noise from being transmitted through audio systems and other entertainment systems that have speakers.  The "noise" that it is suppressing is the waveform that the Pioneer AVG-VDP1 uses to detect engine revolutions!  So in short, modern electronic ignition such as that found in the Chrysler Crossfire prevents the device from working if it is wired like a stereo.

I went through a lot of trouble to isolate my power for my stereo so that it would not transmit noise.  So connecting this device to my stereo power sources was a non-starter.  But what was I to do?  There had to be somebody who figured out how to get around it for their car. 

After several hours of drilling into searches I finally found a single post from a person in Australia who described a way to wire the unit to overcome the problem.  Essentially, the power sources are taken from one of the sparkplug coils and isolated from the battery using small diodes.  This approach would work for some vehicles but not the Crossfire.  I reproduced it here for those who are looking for a solution.

I drew it out below.  In actual practice, though I did install this wiring initially, I removed it because in the end, I found another solution that was less complex and very reliable.  I have left this drawing but be advised it is not applicable to the Chrysler Crossfire.  Read on.

This lead me to stop and consider what I was getting myself into.  And I decided it would be best if I cracked open the factory service manual for the car and identify all the connection points ahead of time so that during installation, I would not have to go back and forth from the manual to the car a million times.  I ended up drawing a very detailed wiring diagram (included) and in the process reached the conclusion that I was going to have to solve the RPM calibration issue or give up on the unit altogether.  So I got busy doing my research and after about 3 hours found a product that answered the mail.  I should add that in the course of two phone calls and one email to Pioneer Support they had no clue and could not tell me anything about this detail.  That's what they get for outsourcing their support center...  What I found is a Tach Signal GMR Pickup from MSD.

It works by detecting the signal going to the coil pack on the spark plug, then converting a 12v input to something the RPM detector in the AVG-VDP1 can calibrate to.  For my application that means attaching the tach signal pickup to one of the coil pack positive leads.  The MSD GMR pickup can be used with inductive or capacitive ignition types to provide an rpm signal of 30% duration when the ignition coil fires. Two washers are provided with the pickup and must be installed in one of two positions depending on the type of ignition driving the coil.

Here is the wiring diagram from MSD:

Click the image above for the Installation Manual

MSD Installation

Here's the information from the factory service manual regarding the coil pack on the engine.  The MSD device simply clips onto one of the positive coil pack input leads.  One lead goes to ground, another to the switched 12v positive power source, and the last goes to the wiring of the AVG-VDP1 as the Switched Accessory Lead.

The instructions below are provided to give a sense of where the coil packs are located and how to reach them, do not continue past step 2 since it is unnecessary to remove them.  Just familiarize yourself with the location and then install the MSD unit according to the instructions provided with the unit.  It took me more time to remove and replace the air filter cover than to attach the clip to my cylinder number six coil 12-volt input lead...

Switch Gear

After careful consideration, I decided to install the switches on the panel that surrounds the stick shift.  I managed to find two switches that have a similar form factor to the side-view mirror knob. 

(switches below are similar but with round instead of square edges)

Carefully measuring to make sure the structure of the panel would not be damaged, and to assure the space behind the panel was deep enough to allow switches, I marked the switch locations - carefully lined up with the window switches, and parallel to each other.

With no going back, I drilled the holes needed (with a center punch mark, small pilot hole then a honking 15/16" speed-bore) to install the switches.  This was the only point in the entire installation where I felt there was no going back.  One slip of the drill and this highly visible piece of interior would be toast.  There is no hiding a misplaced one inch hole...

I was able to make the holes exactly where I wanted them, and the switches fit as planned.  While they are not silver and do not match the window switches, I feel they are consistent with the side view mirror control on the same console so do not appear too out of place. 

Component Construction

I previously constructed a storage compartment by creating a four-inch deep insert that goes into the cargo area.  I fabricated a heavy-duty cover and carpeted it to match the car.  To this I attached my sub-woofer.  The compartment is not easily detectible.  Here it is with the compartment closed.  Not much to see, huh?

Here it is shown open.  Some of the contents were removed to leave an empty compartment to hold the component board and harness.

For this set of components, I took a 1/4" piece of finish quality birch plywood.  I laid out the parts as described in the wiring plan above.  Then I attached the components to the panel.  I left some room on the right for the rear-view camera control box (I can dream, can't I?) and space between the components for airflow and wiring.

Using a variety of small hardware fasteners, I anchored all the pieces to the panel.  Then I added a border on the panel to give it rigidity, and to raise it up slightly off the floor of the compartment.

In order to be sure it would be easy to remove the components, I created a harness for the leads that go to various parts of the car, isolating the board and components so that only the harness connector need be separated to remove the entire unit.  This is necessary because the tire repair and jacking equipment lie under the compartment.

Cooling and Monitoring

Realizing the compartment with the components will get warm, I installed a small indoor/outdoor thermometer that gives me the temperature inside the cabinet, and in the car.  This allows me to monitor the temperature.  Since the wire was not long enough to reach the dash and be concealed, I placed the thermometer inside the console compartment where I can refer to it as needed.  The side bonus is that the console compartment contains the iPod so I can see if things are getting too hot there as well.  It's all good...

After monitoring temperatures in the compartment I found that the units do not produce much heat.  The temperature inside the compartment is only a couple degrees higher than the temperature outside the compartment.  Still, in the dead of summer when the sun hits the black carpet through the big hatch window, I am sure there will be plenty of heat and some air flow will be necessary to preserve the life and reliability of these electronics.

 

To keep the components cool, I added a few vents on the enclosure and installed a cabinet fan. 

 

Tech specs

Dimensions   Product Length   1.57 Product Height   0.39 Product Width   1.57 General Features   Model   273-240   Product Type   Standard case fans   Recommended Use   Computer Builder   Body Material   Multi   Fits What   Model   273-240

To control the fan I added a thermal switch that comes on at 115 degrees and shuts off at 90 degrees.  I added a warning light to inform me that the compartment is above 115 and that the fan is (supposed to be) on.  This gives a fan that self regulates and a monitoring indicator to let me know when it's coming on.  A quick test of the completed circuit using the bottom of a cup of hot coffee to activate the switch confirmed that it comes on and shuts off in the desired temperature range.

It will probably run most of the time on short trips on hot summer days (my inside thermometer routinely pushes past 100°)  but potentially could get the component compartment cooled on longer trips because the air conditioning will eventually get the passenger compartment cooled and the fan will pass that cooler air through the compartment.  So far on cold winter days, even for long rides, the component compartment does not get any warmer than the main cabin.  This suggests that the components do not generate much heat, and indeed, none of the installation materials make any special comment about airflow or the need to cool the devices.  Still it never hurts to keep electronic component temperatures under control.

 

Red LED with Holder Model: 276-270 | Catalog #: 276-270
Mfg hole diameter is 9/32 Typical Voltage: 12, with a maximum voltage of 16V Typical MCD: 33 Typical wavelength: 635nm Viewing angle: 25XXX° 15mA (max)

The fan, LED, and thermal switch were not installed at the time I took the pictures.

 

Component Panel

The finished product is workmanlike, not something to open up and show off at a car show.  That's not what I made it for.  I just wanted the parts to be anchored down, easy to move as a unit, and with as few wires as possible.  I could have spent a lot more money and time to make it pretty - maybe someday...

Install Comments

Once you break down the job into identifying the components, planning out and executing the wiring sub-assemblies, installation is really not much more than placing the finished component board into the space you set aside for it (in my case a hidden compartment in the rear hatch area) and then running wires to the connection points, connecting the wires, then concealing them.  I added a couple switches to the mix, which required drilling out the console.  And I added the MSD sending unit for the RPM signal, which acts as the 12-volt switched lead.  But really installing this in the car after all that, was just about running the wires and plugging in the connector I made.

Here's an evaluation of the installed unit...

Overview | Components | Wiring | Installation | Evaluation

 

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